National Button Society Classification for 2008 Competition
GLOSSARY OF GENERAL TERMS
This glossary defines general terms which may be applicable to more than one
section.
Acid etched/frosted: Refer to page 42, Decorative finishes (DF) assorted.
Ashlee buttons: Metal picture buttons assembled in the 1940’s from old metal
stampings. Most were large and of two piece construction with the pictorial
finding (animals, insects, heads, etc.) soldered onto a plain or ornamental disc.
Some had paste embellishment. Collectors purchased them as old at the time of
their marketing. They are now accepted in Div. III and Div. IX as legitimate
buttons.
Austrian tinies: A specific type. Refer to page 61.
Back marks: Refer to pages 60 (definition) and 5 (mounting requirements).
Back types: Refer to pages 60 (definition) and 5 (mounting requirements).
Backgrounds: Refer to page 59.
Badges: Refer to page 65, Livery assorted.
Base material: The placement of sew through holes or shank attachment
typically determines the base material of a button. There are 3 exceptions to this
rule: 1) Materials (including backgrounds) that are mounted in/on metal are
usually considered the base material. There are 2 exceptions to this. Clear and
colored and black glass mounted in/on metal belong in Sec. 8 (Glass mounted
in/on metal). Steel cups with metal centers or backgrounds are steel buttons. 2)
Eighteenth century bonebacks, hornbacks, and woodbacks with thin embossed
metal surfaces are considered repoussé metal buttons in Sec. 24 only. These
buttons, as well as others with metal or other material (such as celluloid) fit
snugly over the top and sides of a bone, horn, or wood base, are also
appropriate in the material section of the base. 3) Fabrics/textiles and sheet
celluloid (e.g. tight tops) shaped or stretched over a supporting framework/ mold
and secured with a back-plate. The framework/mold and back-plate act as a
support and shank attachment only; the cover is the base material. Regarding
buttons assembled from more than one metal, refer to page 46, Metals assorted.
Basic classification: Every button may be classed according to 1) age, 2) size,
3) material, 4) face design—pictorial, conventional, pattern, etc., and may be
used in competition wherever appropriate. Buttons often fit into more than one
class.
Bidri: A type of insertion inlay. Refer to page 49, Metal inlay/overlay.
Bimini: A specific type. Refer to page 61.
Borders: Refer to page 60.
Breeches buttons: Small faceted glass or quartz crystal over foil mounted in
metal. May be used as either glass or quartz crystal mounted in metal since they
look identical.
Carved (including cameo carved): The removal of some of the button’s surface
to create depth and contour. The cuts are wider and/or deeper than engraved.
Channel setting: Series of rhinestones/pastes set close together in a straight or
curved channel with sides of mounting securing outer edges of stones.
Class representation: The most complete representation possible of each class
specified in the award. Includes so-called mundane buttons as well as rarer, more
desirable types. Extra credit may be given for rare buttons, but the broader
representation should not be sacrificed in an effort to overload the tray with rare
buttons. Decorative finishes (DF) and/or other material embellishment (OME)
are acceptable unless excluded in an award. Refer to page 8, Complete
representation.
Cold plastic enamel: Decorative finish (DF) applied to metal or plastic buttons.
Refer to page 51.
"Colonial" pearl: Refer to page 50, Iridescent shell (pearl).
Color: There are 9 basic colors for competitive purposes. They are: red, pink,
orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, brown, and gray. When an award specifies
only one color, all shades and tints may be used unless excluded. Shades are
made by adding black to the basic color and tints are made by adding white. Any
other color added to lighten or darken will change the basic color (yellow + green
= yellow green not light green). The color of a button is determined by the color
visible at the shank or back of the button. A black glass button with white
overlay is still black. The surface color may be altered with decorative finish
(DF), overlay, veneer, etc. If desired, awards may specify surface color rather
than base color. For example, an award for assorted materials that appear red
(surface color) could include a wood button painted red and a vegetable ivory
button dyed red, etc. Awards should specify the desired range of color, e.g.,
green, may include yellow-green and blue-green. Green should still be the
dominant color.
Combined materials: Refer to page 61.
Construction: Broadly speaking, this term refers to the method of forming a
button. In the glass and enamel sections, construction is a heating/fusing process.
In the specific types section, the term designates buttons of a specific
“construction” type (waistcoats, snap-togethers) that may be made from a variety
of materials.
Conventional design: Non-pictorial designs that range from fairly simple to
ornate.
Conversions: Articles manufactured for other uses converted into buttons.
Examples are jewelry, hat pins and pearl gaming pieces. Not acceptable in
competition. Glass with cone shanks that were molded both for buttons and hat
pins are not considered conversions, but are best used in Div. IX or III. Glued-on
shanks are acceptable except when obviously used to create a button from
something else.
Cookies: Refer to page 53, Laminate.
Coralene: Tiny glass beads heat fused to the surface of a glass or porcelain
button resulting in a bumpy texture. Many have a gold border. Coralene-like
decorations are used on other materials such as wood, plastic, etc.
Crossovers (material): Although most buttons are appropriate in only one
material section, some have “dual identities” based on their construction. Steel
cups with other material centers (including backgrounds) may be used either as
metal buttons steel cups) or as the center material mounted in metal. Regarding
buttons assembled from more than one metal, refer to page 46, Metals assorted.
Buttons with materials covered by a glass shield may be used in Sec. 8
(In/on/under glass) as well as in the section of the material covered by the glass.
All materials mounted in/on metal, except for glass, may be used in their
respective material section, as well as in Sec. 23, Materials mounted in/on metal.
Black and clear and colored glass mounted in metal may be used in Sec. 8 as well
as Sec. 23.
Crossovers (pictorial): Buttons appropriate in more than one pictorial class or
section, based on the design. Buttons that focus equally on more than one
pictorial section are acceptable in all sections represented. Examples are fable
or story buttons with animals appropriate in both Secs. 17 and 20; baskets of
flowers appropriate in both Secs. 18 and 19. Crest buttons depicting animals may
be used as Animals or as Objects (the heraldic device itself is the object).
Crystallized tin: Refer to page 47, Tinned white metals.
Damascene: A type of insertion inlay. Refer to page 49, Inlay/overlay.
Decorative finish (DF): A surface treatment or coating. Included are: stencil,
transfer, lacquer, enameled metal (when not the focus of the button), paint, dye,
pearlized finish, frosted, plastic paint-like finish on modern glass, cold plastic
enamel, gilding (the use of metallic paint, foil, or gold or silver leaf), wash, luster,
tint, finishing color, etc., applied in full, partial, or in combination, etc. Surface
treatments or finishes do not alter the basic button material. For instance, a metal
button with any of the aforementioned finishes is still an “all metal” button. A
partially or completely frosted transparent or opaque glass button is still
considered transparent or opaque glass.
Designs in/on/under transparent glass: Refer to page 44, In/on/under glass.
Dichroic: A type of glass button. Refer to page 41, Construction assorted.
Drums: Includes any material in a metal mounting that has straight sides
measuring at least 3/16 inch high in medium size; small size should be
proportionate. Centers may be glass, black glass, design under glass, paper,
galena, porcelain, etc., or a combination. Glass centers belong in Sec. 8; others
are appropriate in Sec 23, Specific types.
Duplicates: Buttons identical in all ways (size, material, workmanship, color,
design, etc.). Those identical except for size are not considered duplicates, but
unless specified in the award detract from a well balanced tray in competition. In
Div. II, variations of a basic pattern due to the use of different dies by
manufacturers are considered duplicates. Die variations are permitted in
extremely specialized classes when the number of buttons required for a tray
demands their use (a tray of U.S. military buttons specialized to a single branch
of service, etc.).
Dyed: Colored or black dye penetrating part or all of the surface of the button.
Eighteenth century buttons: Buttons made during the 1700s. Unless the award
limits their use, 18th century buttons are also appropriate in all sections of Divs.
I and IX. The slight deviation of rules found in Sec. 24 apply strictly to that
section. For example in Divs. I and IX, the back of the button generally
determines the material. A bone back button may be used in Sec. 15; a wood
back button in Sec. 14, etc. However, in Sec. 24, these buttons are classed as
repoussé metal.
En grisaille: A type of enamel button. Refer to page 36.
Engraved/laser engraved: Fine shallow lines made with a graver or laser.
Includes scrimshaw.
Escutcheon: A central metal ornament (pictorial or conventional design) 1)
attached to two pins that go through holes in the button base and are bent down
in back or 2) attached to one pin that goes through a hole in the center of the
button and forms the wire shank. Never glued.
Extruded: Celluloid or synthetic polymer pushed through an open-ended mold,
like spaghetti.
Faux pavé: Solid piece of glass molded to look like individual
rhinestones/pastes.
Fixe: Painted silk under glass. Refer to page 65.
Flecks: Refer to page 61, Inlay and related techniques.
Fluorescent glass: Glass which glows under ultraviolet light. Refer to page 63,
Unlisted.
Frame: The body of the button forms a frame for a center of any material.
Centers include lithographs, fabric, glass, design under glass, etc.
Free choice: Refer to page 8.
French tights: A type of metal button. Refer to page 49, Two-piece.
Frosted: Synonymous with acid etched or matte finish.
Gay nineties: A specific type. Refer to page 61.
Gemstones: Includes precious and semi-precious minerals, as well as organic
materials such as petrified wood, jet, coral, amber, natural sea pearls, etc.
Gilded: A decorative finish (DF) of metallic paint, colored foils, or gold or silver
leaf applied to another material.
Gilt: Metal overlaid with gold leaf or plated with a thin layer of gold. Not
considered a decorative finish (DF). Gilt is considered the same as gold for
purposes of material identification.
Glued-on shanks: Shank glued to button back. Acceptable except when
obviously used to create a button from something else. These should be
considered carefully with age and button construction in mind.
Golden age: Refer to page 48 under Gilt/ plated, and page 60, Specific types.
Goldstone: A type of glass button. Refer to page 41, Colors assorted.
Goofy: Same as realistic, refer to page 63.
Habitat: Materials found in nature (insects, feathers, flowers, seeds, tiny shells,
etc.) incased under a glass, plastic or celluloid shield.
Handkerchief (Turned) Corners: Metal buttons with corners folded over
mechanically. Two-piece examples consist of 2 square sheets of metal, stacked,
with the top sheet rotated 90-degrees and all corner tips folded toward the center
front; resulting in an octagonal shaped button with a border. One-piece
examples are made by folding the square corner tips toward the center front,
creating a modified square shape. Further decoration may be added.
Hologram: Thin discs containing 3 dimensional images which appear to move
when the button is tipped side to side. Not considered a mechanical/movable
part. Refer to page 61, Mechanical/movable.
Igloo: A specialized sew-through china button with a high “bump” on its top
surface which acts as a tunnel for the thread.
Imitation gemstones: Refer to page 45.
In/on/under glass: Refer to page 44.
Incised: A Working method which uses a sharp tool to create a fine line design.
Inlay: The insertion of a material into the base resulting in a relatively uniform
surface. Refer to page 61 for Inlays assorted, page 61 for Impression inlay, and
page 62 for Insertion inlay.
Inset: A type of inlay button. Refer to page 62.
Ivorine: A type of celluloid button. Refer to page 35, Unlisted.
Jacksonian: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48.
Jelly bellies: Realistic animal buttons made of plated metal with center “belly”
cabochon of glass or pearlized acrylic resin. One set includes elephant, turtle,
fish and owl.
Kaleidoscope: A type of glass button. Refer to page 43.
Kiddie buttons: Small non-realistic glass or plastic buttons made for children’s
wear with pictorial designs of children’s themes (no fruit or flower designs). May
have painted or transfer design.
Laminates: Refer to page 62, Inlay and related techniques.
Lithograph: Refer to page 61.
Lusters: A metallic decorative finish (DF). Refer to page 39, Decorative finish
(DF).
Make-ups: Created by combining two or more parts of buttons and/or other
objects (jewelry pieces, etc.). Not acceptable in competition. Occasionally,
button manufacturers combined two types of buttons (glass button with self shank
set into a self-shanked metal mounting). Unless the parts are obviously unsuited,
these buttons are not considered make-ups and should be given the benefit of the
doubt.
Marcasite: Trade name for pyrite, a crystallized iron metal used as an
embellishment. More brilliant that cut steel, it does not respond to a magnet.
Marquetry: Refer to page 62, Insertion inlay.
Masonite: Refer to page 54, Processed wood.
Matching pairs: Refer to page 6, Size of groupings and number of buttons, and
page 62 for the definition of Matching pairs.
Materials assorted: Implies a balanced assortment of all materials from Secs. 1
through 15. The best trays will, also, have a variety of techniques.
Materials mounted in/on metal: One or more materials mounted in/on metal.
Material(s) must be the focus of the button. Mountings vary from a simple metal
rim with a connecting shank bar cross the back to an elaborate setting of two or
more parts. Material(s) affixed to a metal with pin shank, rivets, or glue is
acceptable as long as the material is the focus (not a border or embellishment).
NOT included are glass metal backs (kaleidoscopes, mirror, etc., in clear and
colored glass; riveted backs and wafers in black glass). Except for Secs. 6 and
7, all materials mounted in/on metal are appropriate in their material sections and
in Sec. 23. Materials mounted in metal under shields of glass or celluloid are
considered to be that material (ivory mounted in metal under glass is an ivory
button) as well as in/on/under glass in Sec. 8. Cl. 23- 9 includes all materials
mounted in/on metal (including glass) as well as specific types (waistcoat/vest,
drum, etc.).
Materials sections: Secs. 1 through 14 are specific material sections listed
alphabetically and include celluloid, ceramics, enamels, fabrics/textiles, black
glass, clear and colored glass, glass mounted in/on metal, horn, metals, shell,
synthetic polymers, vegetable ivory and wood. Sec. 15 includes additional listed
materials such as bone, ivory, rubber and composition as well as all unlisted
materials.
Mechanical make-up: Construction technique(s) used to join two or more button
components or to add embellishment while in a solid (cool) state. Includes
gluing, pinning, riveting, screwing, inserting, etc. Does not include construction
techniques that use heat.
Mechanical/movable: A specific type. Refer to page 61
Metal embellishment: Metal applied to the button for decorative purposes only
(escutcheons, inlays, etc.).
Metal rimmed: A separate metal rim around the outside edge of the button used
simply for protection or decoration. A metal rim on a non-metal button is
considered other material embellishment (OME). Rimmed buttons are
appropriate in all material sections where applicable except Sec. 8, since the rim
is not considered a mounting.
Molded surface designs: Design is molded into heated, softened button material
(horn and glass). Design may be shallow and finely textured or deeply
dimensional.
Mosaic: Refer to page 62, Inlay and related techniques.
Mounted in/on metal: Refer to page 75, Materials mounted in/on metal.
Niello: A black surface treatment on silver.
One-piece thirties: A type of celluloid button. Refer to page 34, Pressed
designs.
Other material embellishment (OME): Material(s), different from the base,
added onto or inlayed into the surface during or after formation of the button to
enhance the face design. Examples are: rhinestones/pastes; cut steel or other
metal pieces; shell/pearl; fabric including sequins, beads and thread; celluloid;
inlay, etc. Clear/colored glass embellishment on black glass (or vice versa) is
acceptable, but blue glass embellishing white glass is not appropriate, as they are
both clear and colored glass. Although rhinestones/pastes are clear/colored glass,
they are acceptable as other material embellishment (OME) on clear/colored glass
buttons. Finishes (original tint, paint, enamel, etc.) are not considered other
materials. When the focus of metal and embellishment is equal or not readily
apparent, the button may represent both the metal class and the class of the
embellishing material mounted in/on metal. A predominant material mounted
in/on metal is not considered embellishment. The terms “trim” and
“ornamentation” have been replaced by “embellishment”.
Overlay: For glass, refer to page 42. For shell, refer to page 50.
Painted and/or encrusted: Refer to page 50, Paint encrusted.
Paint/fired on paint: Paint is an organic mixture applied to the surface of the
button that hardens through oxidation at room temperature and tends to peel or chip.
Pairs, matching: Refer to page 6 and 62.
Pairs, related: Refer to page 67.
Papier mâché: Buttons made of tightly layered paper and a thick blacking agent.
Surfaces were painted or overlaid with thin pearl and varnished.
Passementerie: Refer to page 63, Fabrics. Not restricted to 18th century.
Patterns: Refer to page 59.
Pavé setting: Many individual rhinestones/pastes set very close together to cover
an entire area and to conceal the metal almost entirely thus creating a smooth
even surface.
Pearlized: Decorative finish (DF) made from a fish scale solution.
Pictorial design: All subject matter of a pictorial, as opposed to geometric or
conventional/stylized nature. There are 4 main pictorial sections: Animals, Plants,
Objects and Other pictorials.
Pierced/openwork: Holes or openings through the body of the button from the
front completely through the back (not set on solid backing) forming part or all
of the face design. Pierced: holes or openings cut, drilled or bored. Openwork:
molded openings. Filigree: delicate lacelike ornamental work (intertwined wire,
cut, molded, etc.). Buttons pierced side to side only do not qualify here.
Pigeon Eye: Glass embellished metal button. Refer to page 49.
Popper: A type of Div. I glass buttons made by Leo Popper and Sons. Shanks
vary from a small shank plate with two prongs embedded in the glass to self
shanks, key shanks and some swirl backs. They may be transparent, opaque or
both and come in a variety of shapes. Specialties include “spangled glass”(a
mixture of colors), “silvered glass”(silver-like metal mixed into the glass), and
“pearlized” (imitation pearl made from fish scales). Embedded crinkly foil,
flecks, goldstone and spattered glass were also incorporated into their design.
There are paperweights and moonglow-types. Poppers are appropriate in Sec.
6 or 7 according to their basic characteristics (shank type, foil embedding, etc.).
Pressed: A shallow surface design created through heat and pressure. Applies
to materials such as wood, celluloid and vegetable ivory.
Protrusion: A specific type. Refer to page 61.
Realistic: Refer to page 63, Specific types.
Rebus: A puzzle consisting of pictures of objects, letters, signs, etc. which when
pronounced suggest a word or phrase.
Repoussé: Typically 18th Century. Refer to page 65, Repoussé metal.
Reproductions: Buttons re-struck from old molds and sold as such. May be used
in Divs. III and IX.
Rhinestones/pastes: Refer to page 45.
Riveted shank: An overall button shank similar to a stud but attached to the
fabric. Refer to page 66 under overalls.
Screenback: A screen of metal forms the base of the button. It may be classed
as an openwork metal button. There are also rare black glass buttons
constructed on screen which are considered black glass buttons (similar to
riveted).
Section assortments: Refer to page 7, Assortments.
Sets: Refer to page 67 for use in Sec. 27. Refer to page 8, Complete
representation, for use in other sections.
Sew-through: Refer to page 60.
Shakudo: Refer to page 49, Inlay/overlay.
Shanks: Refer to page 60 under Back types, page 60 for Cone shank, and page
60 for Rosette shank .
Shapes: Refer to page 62 for Shapes assorted, page 62 for Contour (shapes)
assorted, page 62 for Linear (shapes), and page 63 for Realistic (shapes).
Shibayama: Insertion inlay technique. Ivory buttons are inset (inlaid) with
mother of pearl, coral, horn and other decorative materials.
Shield: A thin protective sheet of transparent glass or celluloid used to shield
something fragile (fabric, lithographs, habitat material, etc.). If mounted in metal,
the button is acceptable in the class of the material of the shield as well as the
material being protected. For instance, an ivory button with a glass shield is
considered both ivory and glass mounted in metal.
Snap-together: A specific type. Refer to page 53, Synthetic polymers, and to
page 61, Specific types.
Specialization: When an award requires only a portion of a class, the term
“specialized to” designates that portion. For instance, “Reptiles, specialized to
turtles” excludes other reptiles.
Specific types: Sec. 23 includes buttons appropriate in more than one section.
Includes backgrounds, back marks, back types, borders, combined materials,
construction types (Austrian tinies, lithographs, snap-togethers, and waistcoats),
inlay and related techniques, matching pairs, materials mounted in/on metal,
shapes, and studios. Buttons may represent a specific type, as well as their
appropriate material or pictorial/design section.
Stencil: An applied surface design created through the use of a cut out template
and a masking agent to resist absorption of the dye in desired areas. Applied to
china, metal, vegetable ivory, etc.
Stippling: A surface characterized by uniform tiny bumps creating a textured
effect.
Studio buttons: Refer to page 63.
Summaries: The purpose of any summary is to present the best assortment
specified. Each summary indicates specific numbers according to size
requirements with minimums and maximums stated. All summaries must be
labeled according to class and mounted in numerical order. There are 3 summary
sections, Sec. 16 - Materials (refer to page 55), Sec. 21 - Pictorials (refer to page
58), and Sec. 26 - Complete or overall (refer to page 66).
Swirlback: A type of glass button. Refer to page 40 under Glass, Back types
assorted.
Symbols: A design that stands for or represents another thing. Refer to page 59.
Target: A type of sporting button characterized by a face design meant to
represent the bull’s eye on a shooting target. The concentric rings are often made
of different colored metals. The center may be a different material such as bone,
glass, ivory, etc. A few incorporate sporting pictorial designs (rabbits, birds,
deer, dogs, etc.) into the border or center.
Thread or pad back: A back type. Refer to page 60.
Tile type: A type of glass button. Refer to page 39, Construction.
Tintypes (ferrotypes): Refer to page 49.
Tingue: Refer to page 43, Glass with glass.
Tole: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48, Japanned, lacquered, stenciled.
Transfer/decal: Decorative finish (DF) applied to a sized (varnished) surface
while tacky. The transfer paper is dampened and removed, leaving the transferred
design on the surface.
Turned/lathed: A Working method, a design is created by turning on a lathe.
Twinkles: A type of metal button. Refer to page 49, Twinkles, and 60,
Backgrounds.
Unlisted classes: Offered in several sections, this class often includes unusual
types which help better represent the entire section. Applies only to buttons not
fitting into any of the listed classes.
Usage: Buttons for non-military utilitarian purposes. Refer to page 65.
Vanity: Buttons with a name, initial or logo of an individual, company, noted
personality or retail store.
Veil weights: An old term used by collectors for contour elongated oval shaped
buttons bisected with a metal band attached to shank. Usually made of glass or
fabric and considered as those materials mounted in metal. Appropriate in Div.
I, III, and IX.
Veneer/inlaid veneer: Refer to page 62.
Victorian gilt/plated: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48, Gilt/plated
assorted.
Victorian glass: Refer to page 44.
Victorian jewels: A collector’s term describing a style of glass mounted in metal
having a single piece of glass set in a simple sloping or plain mounting. These
buttons are classed as clear and colored glass (or black glass) mounted in metal.
Waistcoat/vest: A specific type. Refer to page 61.
Watch wheel: Metal embellishment in the form of cog, gear, or other wheel-like
object resembling those found in a watch works. Often found on shell or glass
buttons.
Whistle: A back type. Refer to page 60.
Working methods assorted: Reductive hand or machine techniques used to
shape or create surface designs in solid materials such as shell, wood, synthetic
polymers, vegetable ivory, etc. Includes carving (often cut to show the clear
distinction between surface and body colors), pressing (embossed), piercing
(openings drilled or cut entirely through the button), engraving, laser cut (a
modern style of engraving/carving), turning/lathing (design created by turning on
a lathe), etc. Machine tooling often forms shallow, repeated geometric designs
(rings, lines, etc.). Hand tooling generally produces deeper, more intricate
designs, often in high relief.
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