National Button Society Classification for 2008 Competition


GLOSSARY OF GENERAL TERMS


This glossary defines general terms which may be applicable to more than one

section.

Acid etched/frosted: Refer to page 42, Decorative finishes (DF) assorted.

Ashlee buttons: Metal picture buttons assembled in the 1940’s from old metal

stampings. Most were large and of two piece construction with the pictorial

finding (animals, insects, heads, etc.) soldered onto a plain or ornamental disc.

Some had paste embellishment. Collectors purchased them as old at the time of

their marketing. They are now accepted in Div. III and Div. IX as legitimate

buttons.

Austrian tinies: A specific type. Refer to page 61.

Back marks: Refer to pages 60 (definition) and 5 (mounting requirements).

Back types: Refer to pages 60 (definition) and 5 (mounting requirements).

Backgrounds: Refer to page 59.

Badges: Refer to page 65, Livery assorted.

Base material: The placement of sew through holes or shank attachment

typically determines the base material of a button. There are 3 exceptions to this

rule: 1) Materials (including backgrounds) that are mounted in/on metal are

usually considered the base material. There are 2 exceptions to this. Clear and

colored and black glass mounted in/on metal belong in Sec. 8 (Glass mounted

in/on metal). Steel cups with metal centers or backgrounds are steel buttons. 2)

Eighteenth century bonebacks, hornbacks, and woodbacks with thin embossed

metal surfaces are considered repoussé metal buttons in Sec. 24 only. These

buttons, as well as others with metal or other material (such as celluloid) fit

snugly over the top and sides of a bone, horn, or wood base, are also

appropriate in the material section of the base. 3) Fabrics/textiles and sheet

celluloid (e.g. tight tops) shaped or stretched over a supporting framework/ mold

and secured with a back-plate. The framework/mold and back-plate act as a

support and shank attachment only; the cover is the base material. Regarding

buttons assembled from more than one metal, refer to page 46, Metals assorted.

Basic classification: Every button may be classed according to 1) age, 2) size,

3) material, 4) face design—pictorial, conventional, pattern, etc., and may be

used in competition wherever appropriate. Buttons often fit into more than one

class.

Bidri: A type of insertion inlay. Refer to page 49, Metal inlay/overlay.

Bimini: A specific type. Refer to page 61.

Borders: Refer to page 60.

Breeches buttons: Small faceted glass or quartz crystal over foil mounted in

metal. May be used as either glass or quartz crystal mounted in metal since they

look identical.

Carved (including cameo carved): The removal of some of the button’s surface

to create depth and contour. The cuts are wider and/or deeper than engraved.

Channel setting: Series of rhinestones/pastes set close together in a straight or

curved channel with sides of mounting securing outer edges of stones.

Class representation: The most complete representation possible of each class

specified in the award. Includes so-called mundane buttons as well as rarer, more

desirable types. Extra credit may be given for rare buttons, but the broader

representation should not be sacrificed in an effort to overload the tray with rare

buttons. Decorative finishes (DF) and/or other material embellishment (OME)

are acceptable unless excluded in an award. Refer to page 8, Complete

representation.

Cold plastic enamel: Decorative finish (DF) applied to metal or plastic buttons.

Refer to page 51.

"Colonial" pearl: Refer to page 50, Iridescent shell (pearl).

Color: There are 9 basic colors for competitive purposes. They are: red, pink,

orange, yellow, green, blue, purple, brown, and gray. When an award specifies

only one color, all shades and tints may be used unless excluded. Shades are

made by adding black to the basic color and tints are made by adding white. Any

other color added to lighten or darken will change the basic color (yellow + green

= yellow green not light green). The color of a button is determined by the color

visible at the shank or back of the button. A black glass button with white

overlay is still black. The surface color may be altered with decorative finish

(DF), overlay, veneer, etc. If desired, awards may specify surface color rather

than base color. For example, an award for assorted materials that appear red

(surface color) could include a wood button painted red and a vegetable ivory

button dyed red, etc. Awards should specify the desired range of color, e.g.,

green, may include yellow-green and blue-green. Green should still be the

dominant color.

Combined materials: Refer to page 61.

Construction: Broadly speaking, this term refers to the method of forming a

button. In the glass and enamel sections, construction is a heating/fusing process.

In the specific types section, the term designates buttons of a specific

“construction” type (waistcoats, snap-togethers) that may be made from a variety

of materials.

Conventional design: Non-pictorial designs that range from fairly simple to

ornate.

Conversions: Articles manufactured for other uses converted into buttons.

Examples are jewelry, hat pins and pearl gaming pieces. Not acceptable in

competition. Glass with cone shanks that were molded both for buttons and hat

pins are not considered conversions, but are best used in Div. IX or III. Glued-on

shanks are acceptable except when obviously used to create a button from

something else.

Cookies: Refer to page 53, Laminate.

Coralene: Tiny glass beads heat fused to the surface of a glass or porcelain

button resulting in a bumpy texture. Many have a gold border. Coralene-like

decorations are used on other materials such as wood, plastic, etc.

Crossovers (material): Although most buttons are appropriate in only one

material section, some have “dual identities” based on their construction. Steel

cups with other material centers (including backgrounds) may be used either as

metal buttons steel cups) or as the center material mounted in metal. Regarding

buttons assembled from more than one metal, refer to page 46, Metals assorted.

Buttons with materials covered by a glass shield may be used in Sec. 8

(In/on/under glass) as well as in the section of the material covered by the glass.

All materials mounted in/on metal, except for glass, may be used in their

respective material section, as well as in Sec. 23, Materials mounted in/on metal.

Black and clear and colored glass mounted in metal may be used in Sec. 8 as well

as Sec. 23.

Crossovers (pictorial): Buttons appropriate in more than one pictorial class or

section, based on the design. Buttons that focus equally on more than one

pictorial section are acceptable in all sections represented. Examples are fable

or story buttons with animals appropriate in both Secs. 17 and 20; baskets of

flowers appropriate in both Secs. 18 and 19. Crest buttons depicting animals may

be used as Animals or as Objects (the heraldic device itself is the object).

Crystallized tin: Refer to page 47, Tinned white metals.

Damascene: A type of insertion inlay. Refer to page 49, Inlay/overlay.

Decorative finish (DF): A surface treatment or coating. Included are: stencil,

transfer, lacquer, enameled metal (when not the focus of the button), paint, dye,

pearlized finish, frosted, plastic paint-like finish on modern glass, cold plastic

enamel, gilding (the use of metallic paint, foil, or gold or silver leaf), wash, luster,

tint, finishing color, etc., applied in full, partial, or in combination, etc. Surface

treatments or finishes do not alter the basic button material. For instance, a metal

button with any of the aforementioned finishes is still an “all metal” button. A

partially or completely frosted transparent or opaque glass button is still

considered transparent or opaque glass.

Designs in/on/under transparent glass: Refer to page 44, In/on/under glass.

Dichroic: A type of glass button. Refer to page 41, Construction assorted.

Drums: Includes any material in a metal mounting that has straight sides

measuring at least 3/16 inch high in medium size; small size should be

proportionate. Centers may be glass, black glass, design under glass, paper,

galena, porcelain, etc., or a combination. Glass centers belong in Sec. 8; others

are appropriate in Sec 23, Specific types.

Duplicates: Buttons identical in all ways (size, material, workmanship, color,

design, etc.). Those identical except for size are not considered duplicates, but

unless specified in the award detract from a well balanced tray in competition. In

Div. II, variations of a basic pattern due to the use of different dies by

manufacturers are considered duplicates. Die variations are permitted in

extremely specialized classes when the number of buttons required for a tray

demands their use (a tray of U.S. military buttons specialized to a single branch

of service, etc.).

Dyed: Colored or black dye penetrating part or all of the surface of the button.

Eighteenth century buttons: Buttons made during the 1700s. Unless the award

limits their use, 18th century buttons are also appropriate in all sections of Divs.

I and IX. The slight deviation of rules found in Sec. 24 apply strictly to that

section. For example in Divs. I and IX, the back of the button generally

determines the material. A bone back button may be used in Sec. 15; a wood

back button in Sec. 14, etc. However, in Sec. 24, these buttons are classed as

repoussé metal.

En grisaille: A type of enamel button. Refer to page 36.

Engraved/laser engraved: Fine shallow lines made with a graver or laser.

Includes scrimshaw.

Escutcheon: A central metal ornament (pictorial or conventional design) 1)

attached to two pins that go through holes in the button base and are bent down

in back or 2) attached to one pin that goes through a hole in the center of the

button and forms the wire shank. Never glued.

Extruded: Celluloid or synthetic polymer pushed through an open-ended mold,

like spaghetti.

Faux pavé: Solid piece of glass molded to look like individual

rhinestones/pastes.

Fixe: Painted silk under glass. Refer to page 65.

Flecks: Refer to page 61, Inlay and related techniques.

Fluorescent glass: Glass which glows under ultraviolet light. Refer to page 63,

Unlisted.

Frame: The body of the button forms a frame for a center of any material.

Centers include lithographs, fabric, glass, design under glass, etc.

Free choice: Refer to page 8.

French tights: A type of metal button. Refer to page 49, Two-piece.

Frosted: Synonymous with acid etched or matte finish.

Gay nineties: A specific type. Refer to page 61.

Gemstones: Includes precious and semi-precious minerals, as well as organic

materials such as petrified wood, jet, coral, amber, natural sea pearls, etc.

Gilded: A decorative finish (DF) of metallic paint, colored foils, or gold or silver

leaf applied to another material.

Gilt: Metal overlaid with gold leaf or plated with a thin layer of gold. Not

considered a decorative finish (DF). Gilt is considered the same as gold for

purposes of material identification.

Glued-on shanks: Shank glued to button back. Acceptable except when

obviously used to create a button from something else. These should be

considered carefully with age and button construction in mind.

Golden age: Refer to page 48 under Gilt/ plated, and page 60, Specific types.

Goldstone: A type of glass button. Refer to page 41, Colors assorted.

Goofy: Same as realistic, refer to page 63.

Habitat: Materials found in nature (insects, feathers, flowers, seeds, tiny shells,

etc.) incased under a glass, plastic or celluloid shield.

Handkerchief (Turned) Corners: Metal buttons with corners folded over

mechanically. Two-piece examples consist of 2 square sheets of metal, stacked,

with the top sheet rotated 90-degrees and all corner tips folded toward the center

front; resulting in an octagonal shaped button with a border. One-piece

examples are made by folding the square corner tips toward the center front,

creating a modified square shape. Further decoration may be added.

Hologram: Thin discs containing 3 dimensional images which appear to move

when the button is tipped side to side. Not considered a mechanical/movable

part. Refer to page 61, Mechanical/movable.

Igloo: A specialized sew-through china button with a high “bump” on its top

surface which acts as a tunnel for the thread.

Imitation gemstones: Refer to page 45.

In/on/under glass: Refer to page 44.

Incised: A Working method which uses a sharp tool to create a fine line design.

Inlay: The insertion of a material into the base resulting in a relatively uniform

surface. Refer to page 61 for Inlays assorted, page 61 for Impression inlay, and

page 62 for Insertion inlay.

Inset: A type of inlay button. Refer to page 62.

Ivorine: A type of celluloid button. Refer to page 35, Unlisted.

Jacksonian: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48.

Jelly bellies: Realistic animal buttons made of plated metal with center “belly”

cabochon of glass or pearlized acrylic resin. One set includes elephant, turtle,

fish and owl.

Kaleidoscope: A type of glass button. Refer to page 43.

Kiddie buttons: Small non-realistic glass or plastic buttons made for children’s

wear with pictorial designs of children’s themes (no fruit or flower designs). May

have painted or transfer design.

Laminates: Refer to page 62, Inlay and related techniques.

Lithograph: Refer to page 61.

Lusters: A metallic decorative finish (DF). Refer to page 39, Decorative finish

(DF).

Make-ups: Created by combining two or more parts of buttons and/or other

objects (jewelry pieces, etc.). Not acceptable in competition. Occasionally,

button manufacturers combined two types of buttons (glass button with self shank

set into a self-shanked metal mounting). Unless the parts are obviously unsuited,

these buttons are not considered make-ups and should be given the benefit of the

doubt.

Marcasite: Trade name for pyrite, a crystallized iron metal used as an

embellishment. More brilliant that cut steel, it does not respond to a magnet.

Marquetry: Refer to page 62, Insertion inlay.

Masonite: Refer to page 54, Processed wood.

Matching pairs: Refer to page 6, Size of groupings and number of buttons, and

page 62 for the definition of Matching pairs.

Materials assorted: Implies a balanced assortment of all materials from Secs. 1

through 15. The best trays will, also, have a variety of techniques.

Materials mounted in/on metal: One or more materials mounted in/on metal.

Material(s) must be the focus of the button. Mountings vary from a simple metal

rim with a connecting shank bar cross the back to an elaborate setting of two or

more parts. Material(s) affixed to a metal with pin shank, rivets, or glue is

acceptable as long as the material is the focus (not a border or embellishment).

NOT included are glass metal backs (kaleidoscopes, mirror, etc., in clear and

colored glass; riveted backs and wafers in black glass). Except for Secs. 6 and

7, all materials mounted in/on metal are appropriate in their material sections and

in Sec. 23. Materials mounted in metal under shields of glass or celluloid are

considered to be that material (ivory mounted in metal under glass is an ivory

button) as well as in/on/under glass in Sec. 8. Cl. 23- 9 includes all materials

mounted in/on metal (including glass) as well as specific types (waistcoat/vest,

drum, etc.).

Materials sections: Secs. 1 through 14 are specific material sections listed

alphabetically and include celluloid, ceramics, enamels, fabrics/textiles, black

glass, clear and colored glass, glass mounted in/on metal, horn, metals, shell,

synthetic polymers, vegetable ivory and wood. Sec. 15 includes additional listed

materials such as bone, ivory, rubber and composition as well as all unlisted

materials.

Mechanical make-up: Construction technique(s) used to join two or more button

components or to add embellishment while in a solid (cool) state. Includes

gluing, pinning, riveting, screwing, inserting, etc. Does not include construction

techniques that use heat.

Mechanical/movable: A specific type. Refer to page 61

Metal embellishment: Metal applied to the button for decorative purposes only

(escutcheons, inlays, etc.).

Metal rimmed: A separate metal rim around the outside edge of the button used

simply for protection or decoration. A metal rim on a non-metal button is

considered other material embellishment (OME). Rimmed buttons are

appropriate in all material sections where applicable except Sec. 8, since the rim

is not considered a mounting.

Molded surface designs: Design is molded into heated, softened button material

(horn and glass). Design may be shallow and finely textured or deeply

dimensional.

Mosaic: Refer to page 62, Inlay and related techniques.

Mounted in/on metal: Refer to page 75, Materials mounted in/on metal.

Niello: A black surface treatment on silver.

One-piece thirties: A type of celluloid button. Refer to page 34, Pressed

designs.

Other material embellishment (OME): Material(s), different from the base,

added onto or inlayed into the surface during or after formation of the button to

enhance the face design. Examples are: rhinestones/pastes; cut steel or other

metal pieces; shell/pearl; fabric including sequins, beads and thread; celluloid;

inlay, etc. Clear/colored glass embellishment on black glass (or vice versa) is

acceptable, but blue glass embellishing white glass is not appropriate, as they are

both clear and colored glass. Although rhinestones/pastes are clear/colored glass,

they are acceptable as other material embellishment (OME) on clear/colored glass

buttons. Finishes (original tint, paint, enamel, etc.) are not considered other

materials. When the focus of metal and embellishment is equal or not readily

apparent, the button may represent both the metal class and the class of the

embellishing material mounted in/on metal. A predominant material mounted

in/on metal is not considered embellishment. The terms “trim” and

“ornamentation” have been replaced by “embellishment”.

Overlay: For glass, refer to page 42. For shell, refer to page 50.

Painted and/or encrusted: Refer to page 50, Paint encrusted.

Paint/fired on paint: Paint is an organic mixture applied to the surface of the

button that hardens through oxidation at room temperature and tends to peel or chip.

Pairs, matching: Refer to page 6 and 62.

Pairs, related: Refer to page 67.

Papier mâché: Buttons made of tightly layered paper and a thick blacking agent.

Surfaces were painted or overlaid with thin pearl and varnished.

Passementerie: Refer to page 63, Fabrics. Not restricted to 18th century.

Patterns: Refer to page 59.

Pavé setting: Many individual rhinestones/pastes set very close together to cover

an entire area and to conceal the metal almost entirely thus creating a smooth

even surface.

Pearlized: Decorative finish (DF) made from a fish scale solution.

Pictorial design: All subject matter of a pictorial, as opposed to geometric or

conventional/stylized nature. There are 4 main pictorial sections: Animals, Plants,

Objects and Other pictorials.

Pierced/openwork: Holes or openings through the body of the button from the

front completely through the back (not set on solid backing) forming part or all

of the face design. Pierced: holes or openings cut, drilled or bored. Openwork:

molded openings. Filigree: delicate lacelike ornamental work (intertwined wire,

cut, molded, etc.). Buttons pierced side to side only do not qualify here.

Pigeon Eye: Glass embellished metal button. Refer to page 49.

Popper: A type of Div. I glass buttons made by Leo Popper and Sons. Shanks

vary from a small shank plate with two prongs embedded in the glass to self

shanks, key shanks and some swirl backs. They may be transparent, opaque or

both and come in a variety of shapes. Specialties include “spangled glass”(a

mixture of colors), “silvered glass”(silver-like metal mixed into the glass), and

“pearlized” (imitation pearl made from fish scales). Embedded crinkly foil,

flecks, goldstone and spattered glass were also incorporated into their design.

There are paperweights and moonglow-types. Poppers are appropriate in Sec.

6 or 7 according to their basic characteristics (shank type, foil embedding, etc.).

Pressed: A shallow surface design created through heat and pressure. Applies

to materials such as wood, celluloid and vegetable ivory.

Protrusion: A specific type. Refer to page 61.

Realistic: Refer to page 63, Specific types.

Rebus: A puzzle consisting of pictures of objects, letters, signs, etc. which when

pronounced suggest a word or phrase.

Repoussé: Typically 18th Century. Refer to page 65, Repoussé metal.

Reproductions: Buttons re-struck from old molds and sold as such. May be used

in Divs. III and IX.

Rhinestones/pastes: Refer to page 45.

Riveted shank: An overall button shank similar to a stud but attached to the

fabric. Refer to page 66 under overalls.

Screenback: A screen of metal forms the base of the button. It may be classed

as an openwork metal button. There are also rare black glass buttons

constructed on screen which are considered black glass buttons (similar to

riveted).

Section assortments: Refer to page 7, Assortments.

Sets: Refer to page 67 for use in Sec. 27. Refer to page 8, Complete

representation, for use in other sections.

Sew-through: Refer to page 60.

Shakudo: Refer to page 49, Inlay/overlay.

Shanks: Refer to page 60 under Back types, page 60 for Cone shank, and page

60 for Rosette shank .

Shapes: Refer to page 62 for Shapes assorted, page 62 for Contour (shapes)

assorted, page 62 for Linear (shapes), and page 63 for Realistic (shapes).

Shibayama: Insertion inlay technique. Ivory buttons are inset (inlaid) with

mother of pearl, coral, horn and other decorative materials.

Shield: A thin protective sheet of transparent glass or celluloid used to shield

something fragile (fabric, lithographs, habitat material, etc.). If mounted in metal,

the button is acceptable in the class of the material of the shield as well as the

material being protected. For instance, an ivory button with a glass shield is

considered both ivory and glass mounted in metal.

Snap-together: A specific type. Refer to page 53, Synthetic polymers, and to

page 61, Specific types.

Specialization: When an award requires only a portion of a class, the term

“specialized to” designates that portion. For instance, “Reptiles, specialized to

turtles” excludes other reptiles.

Specific types: Sec. 23 includes buttons appropriate in more than one section.

Includes backgrounds, back marks, back types, borders, combined materials,

construction types (Austrian tinies, lithographs, snap-togethers, and waistcoats),

inlay and related techniques, matching pairs, materials mounted in/on metal,

shapes, and studios. Buttons may represent a specific type, as well as their

appropriate material or pictorial/design section.

Stencil: An applied surface design created through the use of a cut out template

and a masking agent to resist absorption of the dye in desired areas. Applied to

china, metal, vegetable ivory, etc.

Stippling: A surface characterized by uniform tiny bumps creating a textured

effect.

Studio buttons: Refer to page 63.

Summaries: The purpose of any summary is to present the best assortment

specified. Each summary indicates specific numbers according to size

requirements with minimums and maximums stated. All summaries must be

labeled according to class and mounted in numerical order. There are 3 summary

sections, Sec. 16 - Materials (refer to page 55), Sec. 21 - Pictorials (refer to page

58), and Sec. 26 - Complete or overall (refer to page 66).

Swirlback: A type of glass button. Refer to page 40 under Glass, Back types

assorted.

Symbols: A design that stands for or represents another thing. Refer to page 59.

Target: A type of sporting button characterized by a face design meant to

represent the bull’s eye on a shooting target. The concentric rings are often made

of different colored metals. The center may be a different material such as bone,

glass, ivory, etc. A few incorporate sporting pictorial designs (rabbits, birds,

deer, dogs, etc.) into the border or center.

Thread or pad back: A back type. Refer to page 60.

Tile type: A type of glass button. Refer to page 39, Construction.

Tintypes (ferrotypes): Refer to page 49.

Tingue: Refer to page 43, Glass with glass.

Tole: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48, Japanned, lacquered, stenciled.

Transfer/decal: Decorative finish (DF) applied to a sized (varnished) surface

while tacky. The transfer paper is dampened and removed, leaving the transferred

design on the surface.

Turned/lathed: A Working method, a design is created by turning on a lathe.

Twinkles: A type of metal button. Refer to page 49, Twinkles, and 60,

Backgrounds.

Unlisted classes: Offered in several sections, this class often includes unusual

types which help better represent the entire section. Applies only to buttons not

fitting into any of the listed classes.

Usage: Buttons for non-military utilitarian purposes. Refer to page 65.

Vanity: Buttons with a name, initial or logo of an individual, company, noted

personality or retail store.

Veil weights: An old term used by collectors for contour elongated oval shaped

buttons bisected with a metal band attached to shank. Usually made of glass or

fabric and considered as those materials mounted in metal. Appropriate in Div.

I, III, and IX.

Veneer/inlaid veneer: Refer to page 62.

Victorian gilt/plated: A type of metal button. Refer to page 48, Gilt/plated

assorted.

Victorian glass: Refer to page 44.

Victorian jewels: A collector’s term describing a style of glass mounted in metal

having a single piece of glass set in a simple sloping or plain mounting. These

buttons are classed as clear and colored glass (or black glass) mounted in metal.

Waistcoat/vest: A specific type. Refer to page 61.

Watch wheel: Metal embellishment in the form of cog, gear, or other wheel-like

object resembling those found in a watch works. Often found on shell or glass

buttons.

Whistle: A back type. Refer to page 60.

Working methods assorted: Reductive hand or machine techniques used to

shape or create surface designs in solid materials such as shell, wood, synthetic

polymers, vegetable ivory, etc. Includes carving (often cut to show the clear

distinction between surface and body colors), pressing (embossed), piercing

(openings drilled or cut entirely through the button), engraving, laser cut (a

modern style of engraving/carving), turning/lathing (design created by turning on

a lathe), etc. Machine tooling often forms shallow, repeated geometric designs

(rings, lines, etc.). Hand tooling generally produces deeper, more intricate

designs, often in high relief.




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