Page 22 - July2011

128 THE NATIONAL 13u'T'Ton BULLETlN July 2011

A • classic" die struck brass sporting set of 12. Pictorial back mark with lion, unicorn & eagIr.
probably English. Circa 1840s. Size: l' (25mm)

the dark pearl which had previously not been used in button making. In a series of
reminiscences published in 1851, the author, writing of the Black Scotch variety of
oyster shell, commented, "The outer rim was formerly considered worthless and
large quantities were thrown away as rubbish. Change of fashion has brought the
prismatic hues of the dark pearl into fashion for shooting coats, waistcoats and even
studs."2 It is curious that it took so long for the dark pearl to be appreciated. Many
of these later buttons have no evidence of their intended use other than perhaps a
back mark, such as "new sporting design;' or a hunting horn and whip. Some bear a
British Registry Office diamond mark of registration dated between 1846-48.
Sporting buttons began to lose some of their popularity in the 1860s. Although
Charles Dickens mentioned gentlemen "full of dogs and deer and foxes" in an article
published in 1862. By 1865, when the cargo of the side-wheeler Bertrand was lost