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32 The NaTioNal ButtonBulleTiN March 2025

Passementerie fabric buttons feature stitches in gold or silver metallic
threads . Both 18th C and modern examples are easy to find .

Passementerie is an interesting French word to think about. “Passement”, the root
word means “decorative lace”, and passer refers to “trim”. But with buttons, the
term can refer to different button categorizations. In fabric, passementerie falls
under Class 5-7.2 for the silver and gold metallic threads that adorn the fabric
base in elaborate embroidery. Sequins, pearl, glass and paste embellishments
may also be incorporated into the designs of these buttons. There are Division
I and Division III fabric passementerie buttons. Many collectors favor the 18th
century passementerie versions that are often constructed with gathered fabric
backs and these are also under Class 24-3.2.

Originally, passementerie was also used as a separate class of black glass buttons.
It referred to riveted black glass on metal and pieces of black glass held in place
by wire. The Blue Book changed this class in 1985 to riveted/glued/wired to avoid
confusion with the fabric designation and Cl. 6-5.3.2 Pinned/Soldered on Metal
Back is currently still in use today. However, passementerie referring to the rivet-
ed black glass is still occasionally (incorrectly) used by collectors today.

A “wood back” can also describe more than one type of button. Visualize an 18th
century repousse metal cap over a solid wood back which falls into Classes 14-7.2
and 24-6.6 in the Blue Book. The wood is only seen from the underside of the
button. This type is considered a cross-over and may be used as a wood button,
but also as a metal button. A “wood back” might also refer to a “wood back-
ground”, (Cl. 14-6.1). A Division I wood background is set in metal with a thin

Black Glass Passementerie is an older term, no longer used in Classification .
The correct term is “Pinned/soldered on a metal back .