Page 33 - January1960

January,1960 NATTONAL BUTTON BULLETIN 31

"A button factory was for a long period, and until quite recently, carried on
in Crown Alley, where there was an old-fashioned press, worked like a pile driver.
But the manu-facture consisted of the striking of imported blank buttons from
cld dies or from dies cut in England.
"Actual button-making has been extinct in Dublin for many years' It is
therefore difficult to get any information as to the processes. Dr. William Frazer
in hls articles in the Journal of th,e Royal Historical and Archealogical Associa-
tion of lreland, 1885-1886. writing of the year 1?65 says, 'At this time and for
many years afterward the trade of die-sinking in Dublin was remunerative; for
there was much demand for buttons struck in metal, which was so well paid
that the workmen who fabricated heavy gili buttons then in ordinary use for
gentlemen and their servant's liveries-were able to earn large wages, and seldom
worked above ttrree, or four days each'week, spending the rest of the time in idle-
ness and drinking. Change of fashion has long destroyed this lucrative trade.'
And again wriLing of John woodhouse, father of William woodhouse, the medal-
ist, he states: 'For several years past, the occupation of preparing metal buttons
tras almost disappeared from the list of our own Irish Manufactures. In the days
of its prosperity during the first quarter of the 19th century, it was largely fol-
lowed, and gave lucrative employment to more than one grade of workmen' Those
men who engaged in the process of water gilding or coating dress buttons with
gold dissolv€d in amalgam of mercury, obtained exceptional high wages, but the
occupation was most unhealthy and dangerous from the poisonous fumes of the
mercwy evolved by heat.'
"From about 1?50 to 1800, buttons were made quite flat, of a single plate of
metal, with the stem brazed on the back. The domed button (convex front, convex
back,) stiil a single plate, came into u$e about 1?80 and lasted till about 1820.
After that the button made of two plates joined together around the edge came
into general use, except in the case of servants' livery buttons, many of which
are still made into flat or convex single p,late form. It was probably found that
the button with the convex back was uncomlortable to use, and rough on button-
holes.
"About 1?50-1?80 flat metal dress buttons were the fashion for gentlemen;
some of these buttons were as large as 1 3-16" and were ornamented with rough
chasing or designs formed of a series of different punch marks in imitation of
engraving; these were probably gilt, as specimens seen retain slight evidences of
the original gilding. A riding coat in the Dublin Museum has gilt buttons of this
class of about 1" in diameter.
"Amongs0 the old Irish buttons of interest are those of the Irish Volunteers
of. 7782 and later. Many of these corlx had specially designed buttons most of
which were made by Murphy and by Lloyd. Hunt Club buttons, buttons of Poli-
tical Clubs, 'Repeal of the Union' buttons, Livery buttons of Institutions, Corpo-
rations and Business Firms, also Servank'Livery buttons form a very large class
and are of interest heraldically.
"Military buttons made in Dublin do not fall within the scope of this paper.
ft may, however, be mentioned that in 1751, by Royal Waffant the regiments of
the British Army were given the historic regimental numbers, and by Royal War-
rant dated 21st of September 1767, these numbers were directed to be put on the
uniform buttons. In 1880 the numbers were abolished, and territorial designation
given to the regiments instead.
"Polished and faceted steel buttons of beautiful and elaborate manufacture
are to be met with, but it is not known if any of these were made in Dublin. An
interesting example is a large flat steel button engraved with running har€, trees
and initials of Hunt Club'D.H.' proba ly the old Down Haniers.

"Horn buttons are also met with having embossed desigrts impressed on them
from dies, the horn being flrst softened, very probably by heat.