Page 32 - May2008

May 2008 THE NATIONAL 'BuTTon BULLETIN 85

While there were likely many methods used to make swirlback buttons,
one patent from 1877 describes the process this way: a rod of glass is heated at
one end until it is workable, then a shank, held in a pliers-like tool, is inserted into
the softened glass, which is then worked
I. LEHMANN.
around the shank by turning the tool MaDllfaotu re of Glass -Bu LtouB.
No. 19 7,869 . Pate nted Oec. 4 . 1877.
until a glass sphere is produced. In that
particular patent, the sphere or ball was
then pressed into a metal die to form a
molded front swirlback. The patent also
makes reference to placing a small portion
of a different colored glass on the shank
before inserting it into the heated end of
the stick, thus making a swirl back radiant.

WHEN ~WIRLBACKS ~

WERE IN t.pTYLE

Plain white spherical swirlback buttons adorn this
young lady's summer two-piece dress, with its
32-inch bust and 20 1 /2-inch waistband. The round
white glass buttons down the front of the bodice
are strictly a decorative feature-the bodice actually
closes with hooks and eyes. Dating from the 1870s,
the dress is made of a light cocoa brown fabric with white pinstriping, and trimmed
in white cotton lace. The bodice drapes longer in the back, and the skirt is layered in
ruffles and fuller in the back to accommodate a bustle. It is interesting to note that of
the 12 buttons, four are swirlbacks and eight are not-same color glass, same shape,
same shank-just no sign of swirls on two-thirds of the buttons.
DRESS FROM THECOLLECfION OF PAT FiElDS