Page 13 - July2011

July 2011 THE NATIONAL 'BuTTon BULLETIN 119

DIVISION IV Related Specialties

by Paul Rice, Div IV Chair
In the previous issue of the National Button Bulletin, we initiated a series of short
articles to highlight Div IV specialties and the results of a 60-member effort to
develop an online educational resource for Related Specialties!. Hopefully, these
columns will serve to "spread the word" and stimulate greater interest in Related
Specialties which are widely held but seldom see the light of day.
Part 2- Buckles & Clasps
The history of buckles and clasps
mirrors the history of our buttons and
trim. However, the fully functional use
of the buclde for fastening the ends of
a belt likely emerged before buttons
transitioned from their earliest use as ornamental trim to their functional use as
a garment closure.
While laced cords and fabric ties were functionally adequate
to prevent inadvertent exposure, sturdy belts and attendant
buckles were much more suited for securing the weapons and
tools used by ancient Greeks, Romans and other northern
Europeans. The buckle above is an Ordos culture gold belt
buckle from central China, circa 1st century BO. Later, during
the early medieval period, highly decorated belt buckles were
worn over long tunics mainly as a mark of status. The buckle at
the right is from the European tomb of Saint-Denis, c. 570AD 3 •
The buckle was an important piece of ornamentation through-
out the middle ages and took on its most splendid form in the
later 14th century. Metalsmiths used precious metals and gems
with rich and intricate designs. Buckles remained primarily for
the wealthy until the 15th century when improved manufactur-
ing techniques made it possible to easily produce molded and
cast buckles available to the general population 4 •
The basic buckle design takes several forms, including the
slide which has one or more bars on the back through which
the belt is passed. Clasps consist of two or more pieces with a
hook and eye to achieve closure (see silver snake example on
page 120). Some buckles have a bar on the back holding one or
more prongs or posts which pass through holes punched in the belt for closure.
There is also an interlock design where one side of the buckle passes through an