Page 16 - July2011

122 THE NATIONAL 'BuTTon BULLETIN July 2011

& Stream, Sports & Pastimes
Sporting Sets

PART ONE:
1750~1865

by Elizabeth Hughes
'Sporting buttons' depicting
subjects of the chase or other sports
activities were worn on coats, jackets
or waistcoats. They are typically
found in sets in which the designs
vary but are related in theme,
although there are exceptions in
which all the buttons are identical.
However, judging by some of the
more fragile examples in enamel, ceramic, pearl or glass, they were probably not
always worn in the field. Late 19th-and early 20th -century sporting sets were
worn on waistcoats, jackets or blazers.
Eighteenth-century sets may have up to 28 or more buttons; 19th- and early
20th-century sets typically have only 6-12, although sometimes with additional
small buttons.
The earliest English and Irish sets date to the second half of the 18th century.
They were commonly made by silversmiths and custom engraved to order, but
they were also made of coin silver, silver plate or copper alloy. The usual subjects
are equestrian, fox hunting, coursing, stag hunting, horse racing, game animals
and various breeds of hunting dogs. Continental sets frequently include chamois,
boar, bear and wolf hunting. Among the more colorful examples, although they
were not custom made, are the mid-18th century equestrian transfers on enamel
made at the Battersea factory (London) on the cover of this issue.
By the last quarter of the 18th century, when large decorative coat buttons
were fashionable, the standard engraved silver, silver plate or copper alloy sets were
augmented by carved or engraved pearl, glass intaglios and scenes modeled in wax
or painted on enamel, glass or ivory. In the 1790s, silver sets engraved with shooting
scenes began to appear, as well as the first mass produced die stamped buttons